The Thames Path: day 12

Day 12

Radcot - Castle Eaton

20.42km / 12.69 miles 

4:26:02

1,176 calories 

Cumulative total: 272.51km / 169.34 miles

I found new energy today and picked the pace back up slightly. It was a medium-length walk with a lovely break in the middle in Lechlade catching up with my uncle and aunt, who'd driven down from Cheltenham to say hi. They met me just along the path, bearing coffee and some delicious date slices, and we had a good chat. I also sourced a sandwich made with some amazing sourdough bread for lunch, so it was a very worthwhile stop! Lechlade seems like a pretty little town and the river was busy with people renting kayaks and swan-shaped pedalos. 

It is at Lechlade that the river officially becomes unnavigable to larger boats; beyond, it is windy, narrow and increasingly hemmed in by reeds and waterlilies. It runs down the edge of tonight's campsite and I'm surprised it's even kayak-able here - it's almost a stream. 

Just before Lechlade I passed the last (or first) lock of the river, St John's, where there's a statue of Father Thames looking on as those boats starting or finishing their cruise pass through. He looks rather serious and for some reason is carrying a spade.

Past Lechlade the path used to divert from the river, but they've managed to negotiate a route with the local landowners and now it meanders happily along the bank for an extra couple of kilometres. I'm glad as after that I basically didn't see the river again until Castle Eaton. The path heads away through fields and along bridleways, catching only the occasional glimpse of the Thames, until the village.

At Castle Eaton I stopped at the Red Lion pub for a pint overlooking the river, a short break before a short walk to the campsite on the other bank. I'm right by the river and I think tonight might be the quietest place I've stayed, with very little traffic noise and most of the other people here in caravans or motor homes. 

I can't believe it's the last day tomorrow! It's quite a long one to finish with but I'm excited to get to the source and complete what has been a superb walk.