70.4km
342m elevation gain
I had all good intentions for a campsite supper from the supermarket but it turned out that the fancy epicerie in Chaumont, where I'm staying, was not equipped for campsite dinners - was envisaging some pasta or something. Also frankly it's too hot to cook and I was knackered after a busy day, so I ended up demolishing a croque monsieur at the local guingette (snack bar, like last night) instead. To be honest with the prices at the epicerie I probably didn't spend much more.
The other downside to today was stupidly throwing away my nice bamboo fork with the packaging from the salad I had for lunch. Realised too late to go back for it. So unless I can procure a replacement I'll be eating with a spoon instead of a fork.
Today was the first day when I woke to find the tent damp from condensation and the kit I hoped would dry overnight was sodden. I packed it up anyway and was en route the earliest yet, with three tourism stops planned and a decent chunk of cycling ahead.
Stop 1 was the cathedral in Tours. It was worth stopping for, with some lovely modern stained glass in addition to the older stuff.
Then it was a nice run to Amboise, where I lost my fork but did enjoy the chateau. Did you know it was where Leonardo da Vinci died and is buried? I did not.
After Amboise the route ran through fields and vineyards before hitting the river again, on a blessedly shady path that got me right to Chaumont and tonight's stop. I checked in at the municipal campsite (€7, the cheapest yet!), put the tent up, had a pointless shower because the cubicle was so hot I was sweating again as soon as the water stopped, and then headed out to visit the Chateau de Chaumont.
Chaumont is on a huge site. The castle itself isn't that big, but the gardens are enormous. It's been through a number of ownerships over the years and the interior reflects this. But also they have a summer modern art festival, with various works dotted around the castle and the grounds, and a garden festival, this year themed around fairytales.
I was there nearly three hours, escaping the worst of the heat inside before going to the gardens. It's the most expensive touristy thing I've yet done but worth the money. However, I may be castled-out for a bit and I may not bother with any of the castles on tomorrow's route. There's other stuff to see, and I'd like to be in Orléans early enough to skip the heat, go to the laundry and have a wander. And maybe try and buy a new fork...
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