Logistically the Loire à Vélo is actually pretty easy. Pick your direction and off you go - it's very well signposted and even the detours are signposted.
I did plan my route on GPS but also detoured from it a few times, where I followed signs. I was always able to rejoin eventually. There's not really a right or wrong choice where the route splits, it's more about what you want to see when, or if you fancy a flatter or hillier section.
I got overnight Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to St Malo and back from Caen to Portsmouth - cabin reservation mandatory, which hikes the price a bit, but I did have a four-berth ensuite to myself. From St Malo I had a three-train trip - to Rennes, then to Nantes, then to St Nazaire, and I took the cycle shuttle (€5, bookable here) across the bridge. All quite easy but you do have to make cycle reservations and for the Rennes-St Nazaire leg I had to pay €1 for the trouble to the regional company Aliop, although I booked train tickets through SNCF Connect. On the way home, it was a train from Nevers to Paris Bercy, then a hop across town to St Lazare on to Caen and a final ride to the ferry. Again, bike reservation mandatory, but it was free for this leg because of the days I was travelling. Make sure you check!
EQUIPMENT
My Dolan GXA bought in lockdown continues to be an excellent bikepacking steed. I switched to tubeless Pinarello Cinturato 45mm tyres earlier this year and had zero issues on the varied paths (gravel, cobble, tarmac and sandy) of the Loire à Vélo. In fact they were super comfortable and barely lost pressure, I just topped up a couple of times. Speaking of pumps, an electric mini-pump is life-changing especially as it gives you the security of knowing exactly how much pressure is in the tyre.
The other game-changer was a Click-Stand, a neat little pole to prop up your bike when there's no wall, tree, hedge or decent rack around. A guy in the US makes them to order for your bike.
I carried my things in Ortlieb back-roller panniers, a Topeak trunk bag, and an Ortlieb handlebar bag, plus my Restrap top tube bag for key tools. I think I had about 16kg of stuff. I didn't need all of it (down jacket and long-sleeve top were totally pointless!) but it fitted in the bags. I brought my proper camera this time in the handlebar bag and it was dead easy to get it out to take photos. Most of the others I saw on the route also had panniers, or even trailers.
Sleeping kit remains an Alpkit Soloist tent, Exped mat, Alpkit sleeping bag (too warm really), silk liner, and two Exped inflatable pillows. One of these is new, with a foam layer, and it definitely helped me sleep better. I put one pillow under the mattress to raise up the head, which also avoids them slipping about so much.
Also brought my Alpkit Kraku stove, a mug, bowl and plate, but barely used them except for a couple of meals and coffee. Frankly it was too hot to cook.
CAMPSITES AND HOTELS
I mostly camped, and mostly reserved in advance, except for a handful of days. I was glad to have the security of knowing I would have a spot and I like knowing where I'm stopping for the night. I'm really not good at being spontaneous!
Saint-Brevin: Camping le Briord, 4.5/5
I wanted to stay closer to the coast that first night, but the campsite I chose does not take reservations for its bike places and when I called to ask if they had any they were full. So was the other big site down the way. I had a panic, did another Google Maps search and found Camping le Briord, a small mother-daughter run site. It had lots of space, I had a great spot next to a couple of cyclist couples, and it was close to the supermarket for food. Half a point off for a bit of traffic noise and very basic sanitary facilities. Cash only.
Nantes: Logis Hotel Chateaubriand, 4/5
A basic two-star hotel about 15 minutes on foot from key sights. Has secure parking, a friendly welcome, and a decent breakfast all at fairly good value. There's no early check-in and my room was a bit small and hot but generally I was happy with this as a choice for a couple of nights.
Ancenis: Camping de l'Ile Mouchet, 4/5
Fairly close to town, and a dedicated bikepacking area which unfortunately doesn't have much shade. There's a tent with benches and a fridge etc for cyclists to use, a small pool to splash in, and sanitary facilities were fine. WiFi reached my tent but was terrible!
Les Ponts-de-Cé: Slow Village, 3.5/5
High points: decent shady spot, enormous pool next door which is free to access if you're camping, good sanitary facilities, a small communal area for cyclists with fridge, microwave and electricity. Low points: expensive (€18.50), cycling area was miles from the loos and showers, and nobody asked me on check-in if I wanted to buy breakfast pastries.
Saumur: Flower Camping de l'Ile d'Offard, 3.5/5
The most expensive campsite of the week at nearly €30 in total, possibly because I booked in advance, and while it was nice not sure it was worth that much. The pool was out of order and while my spot was close to the sanitary block it was miles to the welcome. Easy cycle from town however.
Savonnières: Camping La Confluence, 4.5/5
Very happy here. Close to the lovely guingette by the river, or I could have had pizza from a pizza truck for tea. A warm welcome from the staff. The kitchen was well set-up for cyclists with a nice covered seating area, and the whole site was nice and small. Great spot.
Chaumont: Camping municipal Grève-sur-Loire, 4/5
The cheapest campsite of the lot at €7 for the night, does not take reservations. Enormous area with free choice of spot so I was able to look out on the river (the less said about the couple who arrived late and pitched up stupidly close to me, the better). Also walking distance from the chateau. Loses a point for terrible sanitary facilities - small, cramped showers and unisex loos.
Orléans: Jackotel, 3.75/5
Basic and old-fashioned but walking distance from the centre, and a lockable garage for bikes. And my room was huge. A shower curtain for a stand-up shower would be nice though. Breakfast maybe a mite expensive at €10.
Saint-Brisson: le Refuge de la Patte d'Oie, 4.75/5
Definitely my favourite campsite of the trip. Does not take reservations and it works on an honesty system, so you rock up, pitch up, make yourself at home and pop some cash in the box. Had very good showers and loos, a fully-equipped kitchen with cutlery and crockery, books and games and sofas. And a cat. Loses 0.25 from perfection because the nearby road was quite noisy until late at night.
Saint-Satur: Camping les Portes de Sancerre, 4/5
Pretty solid in the sense that my site was close to the sanitary block and the welcome and the tented seating area, and also extremely nice showers and loos. It wasn't terribly clear what the boundaries of my spot were and it was a bit slopey and basically sand, with quite a few bugs. But I was able to book this in the morning, having cancelled the previous choice, and generally I was glad I'd done so.
Nevers: Terracamps de Nevers, 3.5/5
The German lady who rocked up as I was trying to decide where to pitch in Nevers was decidedly unimpressed about the options: a small area for cyclists with space for maybe three tents close together under a tree, close to the loos and showers, or a massive, unshaded area at the other end of the site. I went for the bigger area for the space. There was a rickety picnic table with electricity spots, a good idea, but more could definitely be done to make cyclists feel welcome - all the campervan spots were nice and shady even though they tend to come with awnings!
General observations
France is supremely well set-up for bikepacking or bike touring, and I definitely want to do more in the future. And this route would be perfect for a novice adventure.
The only caution I'd say is that France in August on Sundays and, weirdly, Mondays, can be challenging when it comes to resupplying; their dropped kerbs are often quite harsh; and bring loo roll for campsites, it's a bit hit and miss!
Bonne route.
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