La Loire à Vélo: the journey home

I woke in Nevers to discover the weather had broken and it was trying to drizzle - time to go home.

After a last pain au chocolat, and a bit of commiserating and the gift of one of my inner tubes to a British lady who had come out to catch up with her partner and promptly had some weird tyre malfunction on a very badly maintained bike, I headed to the station. Part one of the journey was very straightforward, then I had a fairly easy ride to St Lazare - first time on a bike in Paris. The train was late leaving St Lazare and the rush to board was horrible; lots of fellow foreigners totally unable to work out which carriage they were in, and the steps up to the second floor of the train just made life very miserable really. Eventually I found my seat and was very glad of it.

Arriving in Caen, I cycled up to the port of Ouistreham against a hideous headwind and then along the D-Day beaches for a bit until I just ran out of steam - and was also regretting not putting on cycling shorts! Made my way back to Ouistreham where I've had some moules frites and Muscadet to kill time before check-in for the ferry, but have had to retreat to the ferry terminal for a bit as sitting outside the restaurant just got too chilly and there's still almost an hour before boarding.

It's been a great trip. I definitely see more European bikepacking adventures in the future.

La Loire à Vélo: day 10

SAINT-SATUR TO NEVERS

67.9km

101m elevation gain

Et fin.

Today has been a little flat, in every sense. 100m of elevation over 68km is ridiculous, it was all levée and canal paths pretty much the whole day, and my heart rate barely rose. 

I stopped properly just once, for a coffee and biscuit stop at a picnic table, otherwise just trundled along; although it was a perfectly pretty route, it was uneventful. Suddenly there I was at kilometre zero of La Loire à Vélo, but not yet at the end point of my ride.

I should have then stopped in a café I passed for lunch, but stupidly decided to continue. It was a bit further than I thought and by the time I reached the campsite I was hot and hungry and probably making bad decisions. 

Of course it took a while to sort out my tent, especially while chatting to a guy who was really interested in the concept of cycle touring (although clearly not in doing any himself). 

Eventually I got into town and stuffed my face with carbs from the boulangerie, before doing some sightseeing. Nevers is a pretty, quiet old town with a fair few interesting buildings including a nice cathedral and an 11th-century church. The cathedral is under reconstruction at the moment and in any case has been heavily rebuilt over the years; in July 1944 it was badly bombed by the RAF and so all the stained glass is modern. The old church survived the bombs and is basically as it was built, plain and quiet.

I'm now chilling with a drink at "Nevers Plage", where you can swim in the river and there's a pleasant outside bar. I paddled a little, so I can say I dipped my feet in the river I followed so far, but wasn't really up for swimming. It's quite weedy.

Tomorrow back to the coast via two trains and a little spin through Paris to change trains!

La Loire à Vélo: day 9

SAINT-BRISSON TO SAINT-SATUR

54.8km

174m elevation gain

Plus 10.4km, 165m elevation gain outing to Sancerre without bags

Today was a great day, and shows why I perhaps need to be more flexible about stuff. I had originally booked a campsite that was only 45km or so along the route from last night's, but a day or so ago I realised I would be in the Sancerre region and I couldn't work out how I could easily do some wine tasting at a sensible time of day from that campsite. 

I had a slow morning and was the last of the four groups of cyclists (two couples and a dad with four kids on Bromptons!) leaving the campsite. I didn't sleep particularly well last night due to allergies, either grass or the cat, and also the traffic noise from the nearby road. A pity as this marred the perfection of a great campsite.

Eventually I was en route at a fairly leisurely pace with no clear plans other than perhaps breaking from my planned route to take the southern option instead of the north where the route divided (did this) and also to stop at a village with an old church and some medieval houses after about 30km. 

I did both; the route, along the canal that runs parallel to the Loire, was delightful - French canal paths beat British ones - and the village, Léré, was pretty although the church was locked. I found a boulangerie and for lack of sandwiches bought a baguette, which i later ate with the rest of the salami I overbought for tea yesterday - success!

About 20km into the day I stopped to check a sign and it suddenly occurred to me that perhaps there would be a campsite closer to Sancerre than the one I originally planned. There was. I don't know how I missed it in planning. And it had space.

So, after my stop in Léré and a later stop for lunch by the canal, I rolled into the new campsite bang on check-in time. Tent up and kit rinsed and I was off to Sancerre on a blessedly light bike, which was a good thing as Sancerre is on the top of quite a big hill!

I was too late for the tourist office stamp but had plenty of time to climb a tower for the view, see the church, have an ice-cream and go to the wine museum. The latter was excellent, a thorough description of why Sancerre makes such good wine (exclusively sauvignon blanc and pinot noir, two of my favourites), including a fun 4D video about the wine-making process. It ended with a tasting of three wines, where you had a decent choice of several to taste. 

In a spirit of tasting more wine I bought a half-bottle for my tea and a local goats' cheese too, to finish up that baguette with. Then it was a delightful spin back down the hill, a splash in the local pool, and time to eat.

One more day on the road to come. Going to miss this life.

La Loire à Vélo: day 8

ORLEANS TO SAINT-BRISSON

94.2km

293m elevation gain 

I'm staying tonight in the best campsite so far, reserved for bikes only and with a cool covered seating area and kitchen with books and games. The French family who arrived just before me are playing Monopoly. Also there's a cute cat. Top marks basically.

It has been a pretty lovely day. I got on the road just before 8:30 and enjoyed the cool morning. I've picked up stamps for my 'passport' from four places (sadly the fifth tourist office is closed at weekends). 

I made three tourism stops. The first was the Oratoire de Saint-Germigny-des-Près, which at its heart is the oldest church in France - dating back to 806, with a lovely mosaic decoration that's the only one of its type.

Then I headed another 6km to the Abbaye de Fleury, whose basilica dates back to the early 11th century and still has 22 monks living there today. It was also rather lovely with beautiful original details like the tiled flooring.

After that, another short ride to Sully for lunch and a mooch around their chateau - with a moat - which was a nice little place. They've reconstructed a bunch of rooms in 19th-century style after a fire destroyed that wing in 1918.

Then I rolled along more nice roads to the campsite, via a hypermarket. I do love a French hypermarket.

A short day tomorrow; am contemplating how I can find some wine to taste as we hit Sancerre country.

La Loire à Vélo: day 7

CHAUMONT TO ORLEANS

99km

375m elevation gain 

I said I was castled out and I really nearly am, but everyone on the internet (aka the Loire à Vélo Facebook group) and the lady at the Blois tourist office said I really shouldn't miss the Chateau de Chambord. It was a detour, adding maybe 13 or 14km to my day, plus the time required for visiting, but after stopping briefly in Blois for the stamp in my 'passport' I decided what the heck.

And you know, I did enjoy Chambord, and I'm glad I went, but dear lord it was busy. Absolutely heaving with people. Some of the bigger chateaux now give you tablets to enhance your visit but frankly it means there's lots of people shuffling around looking at screens rather than the rooms. Anyway, the castle is very impressive but I liked it more for its architecture than the things to see in the rooms, apart perhaps from the royal apartments where Louis XIV once hung out. 

It took me slightly less time than I feared, but I had another 50+ km to go afterwards and it was boiling hot. I drank and drank and drank and was still thirsty. There was also an annoying headwind today.

But I enjoyed rolling through the pretty villages of Beaugency and Meung-sur-Loire; a short stop at the Eaux Bleus near Beaugency (a natural spring) was worth it; and my last stop was at the Jardins de Roquelin near Meung, a slightly wild but attractive little spot where it was good to stroll and stretch my legs. 

Then the last 20km to Orléans weren't too bad. I even managed to do a wash and make it to the tourist office for the Orléans stamp before they closed, and then I was delighted that the cathedral was still open so I don't have to try and do that in the morning. Instead, I can leave early for another longish day.

La Loire à Vélo: day 6

SAVONNIERES TO CHAUMONT

70.4km

342m elevation gain

I had all good intentions for a campsite supper from the supermarket but it turned out that the fancy epicerie in Chaumont, where I'm staying, was not equipped for campsite dinners - was envisaging some pasta or something. Also frankly it's too hot to cook and I was knackered after a busy day, so I ended up demolishing a croque monsieur at the local guingette (snack bar, like last night) instead. To be honest with the prices at the epicerie I probably didn't spend much more.

The other downside to today was stupidly throwing away my nice bamboo fork with the packaging from the salad I had for lunch. Realised too late to go back for it. So unless I can procure a replacement I'll be eating with a spoon instead of a fork.

Today was the first day when I woke to find the tent damp from condensation and the kit I hoped would dry overnight was sodden. I packed it up anyway and was en route the earliest yet, with three tourism stops planned and a decent chunk of cycling ahead.

Stop 1 was the cathedral in Tours. It was worth stopping for, with some lovely modern stained glass in addition to the older stuff.

Then it was a nice run to Amboise, where I lost my fork but did enjoy the chateau. Did you know it was where Leonardo da Vinci died and is buried? I did not.

After Amboise the route ran through fields and vineyards before hitting the river again, on a blessedly shady path that got me right to Chaumont and tonight's stop. I checked in at the municipal campsite (€7, the cheapest yet!), put the tent up, had a pointless shower because the cubicle was so hot I was sweating again as soon as the water stopped, and then headed out to visit the Chateau de Chaumont.

Chaumont is on a huge site. The castle itself isn't that big, but the gardens are enormous. It's been through a number of ownerships over the years and the interior reflects this. But also they have a summer modern art festival, with various works dotted around the castle and the grounds, and a garden festival, this year themed around fairytales. 

I was there nearly three hours, escaping the worst of the heat inside before going to the gardens. It's the most expensive touristy thing I've yet done but worth the money. However, I may be castled-out for a bit and I may not bother with any of the castles on tomorrow's route. There's other stuff to see, and I'd like to be in Orléans early enough to skip the heat, go to the laundry and have a wander. And maybe try and buy a new fork...

La Loire à Vélo: day 5

SAUMUR TO SAVONNIERES

76.4km

280m elevation gain 

Everything pretty much worked out today. I'd decided to detour to see the Abbaye Royale in Fontevraud and was worried it would add a lot to the journey, but as it happened most of the riding after that detour was dead easy - flat and with a tailwind - so the extra few kilometres didn't matter.

Before Fontevraud the route took me past some troglodyte villages, which were interesting to see. After, it was through attractive countryside and the last bit was along the levée by the Loire, which was a great bit of path. 

Fontevraud was interesting. It was an abbey for many years, before becoming a prison in the 19th century until the 1960s when they started restoring it to former glory. It's kind of modern in some ways, accentuated by there being a modern art trail going on with random art in random places. Some of it worked and some of it didn't. Fontevraud is also the last resting place of Eleanor of Aquitaine, all-round badass medieval queen and a many many great grandmother on my dad's side. So it was cool to see her tomb.

I then rolled along for 50km with a break for lunch before stopping again at the Chateau de Villandry, very close to my campsite for the evening. This is another castle dating from the medieval era before they added bits later on; these days it's largely known for its amazing gardens. They're stupendous. They have ornamental kitchen gardens where they plant vegetables by colour to create patterns best seen from the chateau itself. It rained, but mostly when I was inside, and anyway the rain is needed.

I then zipped along the last little bit to the campsite, set up, and after a wander am having more pancakes for tea by the bank of the river at a great little outside bar, where there was also a decent piano recital. Life could be much worse.